Armand Heitz, a French winemaker lying on his back in tall grass, smiling with eyes closed, wearing glasses, a hat, and a coat. Vines Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Maltroie
Purple quotation marks.

Armand Heitz ruffles feathers, and he makes no apology for it. He accuses his region of being “forty years behind” and rails against an appellation system deaf to change. His answer to a warming climate and exhausted soils: regenerative farming that repairs the land rather than mining it, before it's too late.

In forty years,
there won’t be
a single vine
left in Burgundy

— Armand Heitz, Winemaker
Coming 1 October 2026

Coming 1 October 2026

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How Wine Became a Status Symbol

Why does a bottle of wine say so much about the person who orders it? This essay reads wine as a language of social status, and traces how an everyday drink became a marker of class and distinction.

A picture that celebrates good fellowship even as it smiles at its excesses, and that reveals a great deal about the manners and mores of a bygone popular France.